Here is another extant crest.
Showing posts with label crest. Show all posts
Showing posts with label crest. Show all posts
Wednesday, 13 November 2013
Winged helm crest: Part 2
I spent this evening drawing up copies of the depictions of wings on crests from 1410 to the 1480s. A quick tally of the images I have collected, which is in no way a full collection of every crest illustrated from this time, shows the following trends.
* Single wings were only shown after 1460 and they all run front to back, displaying the wide view from the side of the helm.
* 8 pairs of wings were shown running front to back 1410-1450s
* 2 pairs of wings were shown running front to back 1460s - 1480s
* 4 pairs of wings were shown running left to right 1410-1450s
* 3 pairs of wings were shown running left to right 1460s - 1480s
In both types of positioning, L-R and F-B, both were shown on birds and just as wings rising from a helm.
* Single wings were only shown after 1460 and they all run front to back, displaying the wide view from the side of the helm.
* 8 pairs of wings were shown running front to back 1410-1450s
* 2 pairs of wings were shown running front to back 1460s - 1480s
* 4 pairs of wings were shown running left to right 1410-1450s
* 3 pairs of wings were shown running left to right 1460s - 1480s
In both types of positioning, L-R and F-B, both were shown on birds and just as wings rising from a helm.
Monday, 11 November 2013
Winged helm crest: Part 1
For this heraldic display, I will be using green and blue, since they are the colours on my SCA registered device. I will highlight with bronze, to add a metal to the tincture palette.
The complete set will include
* a helm crest suitable for use during equestrian displays and skill at arms competitions
* open barding for the horse that I often ride
* heraldic coloured clothing
* heraldic shield, a christmas gift from my partner
* suitable armour
In choosing the style of crest, I must consider the use, the armour I already have and the materials I have available, matching these aspects to what was present during the middle ages. The helm I have is a bulbous faced bascinet, which will have pointing holes drilled in the top. I think I will make a helm crest in a style suited to the mid 15th century.
I have chosen to use a wing style design, as my device has no primary charge, only two fields.
1290 - 1310 Manesse Codex
* Feathers represented on an eagle shaped helm crest, naturalistic irregular edges with lighter paint in Us to simulate feathers on a smooth surface.
1335 - 1345 Die Wappenroll von Zurich
All of these images show designs running front to back, which may be an artistic depiction
* Feathered or fringed horns, making a circular outline, runs front to back
* A peacock feathered disc behind a fleur de lis, soft edges, circular
* Single large wing, very deep feather cuts, one long feather row in first colour, second and third short rows in other colour, lowest fourth short row in first colour, 1:1 feather:gap spacing, gently curved top edge, flap down to the ground
* Single scallop edged fan, running front to back, with peacock designs on ends
* Peacock feather oval rising from a crown
* Single large wing, very deep feather cuts, one row of long feathers and three rows of short feathers
* Single semi circle with a painted design in the middle, two rows of short feathers and one row of peacock feathers
* Trapezium of peacock feathers
* Disc of peacock feathers
* Interesting pair of black and red wings, rising from either side of a hat, naturalistic edges, and elongated shape. Quite a different shape to other wings shown.
1370 - 1386 Armorial du héraut Gelre
* rectangular upright double wings, with multiple naturalistic layers of feathers, run left to right x 2
* stylised claw terminations, one layer
* rectangular double wings with a single row of long feather incisions, run back to front, flat
* rectangular double wings with a single row of short feather incisions, run left to right, flat
* rectangular double wings with a single row of long feather incisions, flat, diagonal edge down by 1/3, runs left to right
* stylised double wing horns, with a curl on the tip and scalloped edging, runs left to right
1410 - 1420 Lalaing Armorial
* Short double wings on either side of an animal, multiple rows of feathers, narrow wings but feathers widely splayed, flat, run front to back
* Double wings, flapping down to the ground, single feather end layer, curved feathers cut deeply, run front to back x 2
* Double wings, flapping down to the ground, long feather tips with 2 rows of short feathers, curved feathers cut deeply, disc of feathers rising from the centre, run front to back
1445 - 1456 Armorial de Guillaume Revel
* Double wings in rectangular form, slight angle on top edge, two rows of feathers, half length each, flat, only indented feather incisions, run front to back x 2
* Naturalistic wings on a horse or dragon
1447 - 1455 Hyghalmen roll
* Double wing with curved outer edges, deep cut feathers, flat, feathers point upwards, run left to right x 4
* Double wings with bumpy top edge and feathers facing down, more like typical 14th C heraldic wings, deep cut feathers with a 3:1 feather to space ratio, run left to right on a bird
1450 Scheibler Amorial
* Double wings with bumpy top edge and feathers facing down, more like typical heraldic wings, deep cut feathers with a 3:1 feather to space ratio, run left to right on a bird, skinny feathers between wide ones, on a complete bird standing on the helm
1456-1459 Armorial dit de Gorrevod
* Double wings with multiple feather rows with naturally curved terminations, diagonal end cut down to half, run front to back
* Rectangular double wings with a long row of feathers and many short rows, straight cut end with no feather incisions - could actually be sheaths of wheat, very flat, run front to back
* Rectangular double wings with a long row of feathers and many short rows, very short feather incisions, flat, run front to back
1466 - 1470 Wappenbuch vo St Gallen, Haggenberg double wings on a woman run left to right, double wings on a bird run front to back in natural position on the bird's body.
* Single wing, flat, wide naturalistic form, back edge cut into curved edge with deep feather incisions, runs front to back
* Double wings on a woman, very curved shape making an oval outline, single row of feather incisions, deep cut, run left to right, facing front, flat
* Double wings on a bird in natural position, long arcing feathers with very deep incisions, flat.
* Double wings, flat, wide naturalistic form, back edge cut into curved edge with deep feather incisions, double wings run front to back from inside a crown
1466 - 1473 Ortenburger Wappenbuch
* Simplified naturalistic wings on a bird
1483 Conrad Grunenberg Wappenbuch
*A single wing, hard to tell if running front to back or left to right, deep feather incisions, curved feathers widely spaced, flat x 2
* Double flat wings, hard to tell if running left to right or front to back, one long feather layer and one short feather layer, arcing outline making a circle
1486
1244 - 1259 Matthew Paris shields
1265 - 1270 Wijnbergen
1272 - 1307 Smalepece's Roll
1285 Charles roll
1310 Lord Marshal
1340 Cook ordinary
1417 - 1420 Cour Armoureuse
1340 - 1350 Balduineum
The complete set will include
* a helm crest suitable for use during equestrian displays and skill at arms competitions
* open barding for the horse that I often ride
* heraldic coloured clothing
* heraldic shield, a christmas gift from my partner
* suitable armour
In choosing the style of crest, I must consider the use, the armour I already have and the materials I have available, matching these aspects to what was present during the middle ages. The helm I have is a bulbous faced bascinet, which will have pointing holes drilled in the top. I think I will make a helm crest in a style suited to the mid 15th century.
I have chosen to use a wing style design, as my device has no primary charge, only two fields.
Wings on Helm Crests
The following images show a timeline of wings in use around the fifteenth century. They are all found at http://lalanguedublason.blogspot.com.au/2012/05/armoriaux-anciens.html1290 - 1310 Manesse Codex
* Feathers represented on an eagle shaped helm crest, naturalistic irregular edges with lighter paint in Us to simulate feathers on a smooth surface.
1335 - 1345 Die Wappenroll von Zurich
All of these images show designs running front to back, which may be an artistic depiction
* Feathered or fringed horns, making a circular outline, runs front to back
* A peacock feathered disc behind a fleur de lis, soft edges, circular
* Single large wing, very deep feather cuts, one long feather row in first colour, second and third short rows in other colour, lowest fourth short row in first colour, 1:1 feather:gap spacing, gently curved top edge, flap down to the ground
* Single scallop edged fan, running front to back, with peacock designs on ends
* Peacock feather oval rising from a crown
* Single large wing, very deep feather cuts, one row of long feathers and three rows of short feathers
* Single semi circle with a painted design in the middle, two rows of short feathers and one row of peacock feathers
* Trapezium of peacock feathers
* Disc of peacock feathers
* Interesting pair of black and red wings, rising from either side of a hat, naturalistic edges, and elongated shape. Quite a different shape to other wings shown.
1370 - 1386 Armorial du héraut Gelre
* rectangular upright double wings, with multiple naturalistic layers of feathers, run left to right x 2
* stylised claw terminations, one layer
* rectangular double wings with a single row of long feather incisions, run back to front, flat
* rectangular double wings with a single row of short feather incisions, run left to right, flat
* rectangular double wings with a single row of long feather incisions, flat, diagonal edge down by 1/3, runs left to right
* stylised double wing horns, with a curl on the tip and scalloped edging, runs left to right
1410 - 1420 Lalaing Armorial
* Short double wings on either side of an animal, multiple rows of feathers, narrow wings but feathers widely splayed, flat, run front to back
* Double wings, flapping down to the ground, single feather end layer, curved feathers cut deeply, run front to back x 2
* Double wings, flapping down to the ground, long feather tips with 2 rows of short feathers, curved feathers cut deeply, disc of feathers rising from the centre, run front to back
1445 - 1456 Armorial de Guillaume Revel
* Double wings in rectangular form, slight angle on top edge, two rows of feathers, half length each, flat, only indented feather incisions, run front to back x 2
* Naturalistic wings on a horse or dragon
1447 - 1455 Hyghalmen roll
* Double wing with curved outer edges, deep cut feathers, flat, feathers point upwards, run left to right x 4
* Double wings with bumpy top edge and feathers facing down, more like typical 14th C heraldic wings, deep cut feathers with a 3:1 feather to space ratio, run left to right on a bird
1450 Scheibler Amorial
* Double wings with bumpy top edge and feathers facing down, more like typical heraldic wings, deep cut feathers with a 3:1 feather to space ratio, run left to right on a bird, skinny feathers between wide ones, on a complete bird standing on the helm
1456-1459 Armorial dit de Gorrevod
* Double wings with multiple feather rows with naturally curved terminations, diagonal end cut down to half, run front to back
* Rectangular double wings with a long row of feathers and many short rows, straight cut end with no feather incisions - could actually be sheaths of wheat, very flat, run front to back
* Rectangular double wings with a long row of feathers and many short rows, very short feather incisions, flat, run front to back
1466 - 1470 Wappenbuch vo St Gallen, Haggenberg double wings on a woman run left to right, double wings on a bird run front to back in natural position on the bird's body.
* Single wing, flat, wide naturalistic form, back edge cut into curved edge with deep feather incisions, runs front to back
* Double wings on a woman, very curved shape making an oval outline, single row of feather incisions, deep cut, run left to right, facing front, flat
* Double wings on a bird in natural position, long arcing feathers with very deep incisions, flat.
* Double wings, flat, wide naturalistic form, back edge cut into curved edge with deep feather incisions, double wings run front to back from inside a crown
1466 - 1473 Ortenburger Wappenbuch
* Simplified naturalistic wings on a bird
1483 Conrad Grunenberg Wappenbuch
*A single wing, hard to tell if running front to back or left to right, deep feather incisions, curved feathers widely spaced, flat x 2
* Double flat wings, hard to tell if running left to right or front to back, one long feather layer and one short feather layer, arcing outline making a circle
1486
1244 - 1259 Matthew Paris shields
1265 - 1270 Wijnbergen
1272 - 1307 Smalepece's Roll
1285 Charles roll
1310 Lord Marshal
1340 Cook ordinary
1417 - 1420 Cour Armoureuse
1340 - 1350 Balduineum
1350 Powell's roll
1353 Wappensaal zu Lauf
1449 - 1456 Bergshammar
1466 Trivulziano ou Visconti
1470 - 1480 (+ 1292 - 1295) Amorial le Breton
1527
1605 Siemacher's Wappenbuch
Crests 1370s: Part 2
A beautiful collection of 14th century crests and heraldic shields. My favourites are the floppy ear happy/snappy dog, the white eared, blue donkey and the the bent seahorse cannon horn.
Interestingly, the helms are shown in a few different positions.
There are
* 4 helms depicted facing directly front on,
* 5 more depicted slightly forward of profile
* 14 shown side on, in profile
* 4 helms are absent
Crests in the Codex Manesse
Images from the Manesse Codex are among the most well known of the period. Luckily, these illuminations show several helms. These images come from around 1340.
Here are a couple of sites with more info on the Manesse Codex
http://www.ub.uni-heidelberg.de/Englisch/allg/benutzung/bereiche/handschriften/codexmanesse.html
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Codex_Manesse
http://digi.ub.uni-heidelberg.de/diglit/cpg848/0243
http://digi.ub.uni-heidelberg.de/diglit/cpg848/0007
Check out those shoes!
Here are a couple of sites with more info on the Manesse Codex
http://www.ub.uni-heidelberg.de/Englisch/allg/benutzung/bereiche/handschriften/codexmanesse.html
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Codex_Manesse
Extant crest fibres
I have found the magic gold nugget of the internet! A fibre from a thread that held a helm crest on!
The website states:
"Susan Muller-Wiering (Center for Textile Research,University of Copenhagen
Very exciting.
The website states:
"Susan Muller-Wiering (Center for Textile Research,
Very exciting.
Extant Crest: The Black Prince
When Edward III died in 1376, several items of heraldic display were arranged adorning his tomb. Among them, is a crest. It is a leather formed leopard, covered in gesso and gilt. This is one of the extant items I looked at when planning how to make
Here is the website that gives a bit more history and shows a reproduction.
http://www.myarmoury.com/feature_mow_bp.html
Here is a discussion where the author of the above page shows his reproduction crest and talks with Armour Archive members about armour mirroring contemporary fashions and people's interest in wearing crests in combat now.
http://www.myarmoury.com/talk/viewtopic.php?t=5265
This page shows some photographs of the original items in the wall case of Canterbury Cathedral.
http://piersperrotgaveston.blogspot.com.au/2011/01/canterbury-cathedral.html
Here is the website that gives a bit more history and shows a reproduction.
http://www.myarmoury.com/feature_mow_bp.html
Here is a discussion where the author of the above page shows his reproduction crest and talks with Armour Archive members about armour mirroring contemporary fashions and people's interest in wearing crests in combat now.
http://www.myarmoury.com/talk/viewtopic.php?t=5265
This page shows some photographs of the original items in the wall case of Canterbury Cathedral.
http://piersperrotgaveston.blogspot.com.au/2011/01/canterbury-cathedral.html
Crests in Saint Georges chapel
This chapel has a long history, and many kinds of heraldic display. The website states that some of the stall plates below are from as early as 1348 or as recent as a few years ago.
Sunday, 10 November 2013
What a crest can tell us about its original owner
I have stumbled across this webpage which seeks to explore and educate people on the history of supposed 'mono-ethnic' societies. The intro says
One of the images used shows a helm crest of Sir John Hawkins. It shows an image of a man who could be one of the African's his father traded with, or a man who was later brought to England, freely or, bought or kidnapped for human trade. This blog uses some terminology that is not considered culturally appropriate for Australian readers, though the sentiment is sound. Remember the past and learn from it in the future.
"Throughout Britain, the history of the Atlantic slave trade is generally known, but the history of black people before and after slavery is unknown."
Spanish heraldic blog
http://heraldistas.blogspot.com.au/2010/02/libro-de-la-cofradia-de-los-caballeros.html
Wow. This blog is written by a Spanish man, Fernando Martinez Larranaga, and is full of great images of crests, barding, trappings and other heraldic items.
The following images were from the post labelled, 'Book of the brotherhood of the Knights of Santiago', also known as 'Libro de los Caballeros de Santiago'. http://www.facsimilefinder.com/export/pdf/446 lists the book as being created in 1388 and completed by 1600. You can order a copy and see previews of this and other manuscripts for sale, here.
Wow. This blog is written by a Spanish man, Fernando Martinez Larranaga, and is full of great images of crests, barding, trappings and other heraldic items.
The following images were from the post labelled, 'Book of the brotherhood of the Knights of Santiago', also known as 'Libro de los Caballeros de Santiago'. http://www.facsimilefinder.com/export/pdf/446 lists the book as being created in 1388 and completed by 1600. You can order a copy and see previews of this and other manuscripts for sale, here.
A mixed colour feather plume on a horses brow, matching his rider's hat trim. There is also another horse with a more modest feathered plume.
I think those are bells on the caparison, along the spine.
It is the feathers I am noticing, here.
Helm crests in stock photos
Who would ever have thought a stock photo webpage would have images we could use for this project! In future, I would seriously consider going to a page like this for a new project and having a look for image names and other resources that could be useful.
http://www.superstock.com/stock-photography/Medieval%20Coat%20Of%20Arms
http://www.superstock.com/stock-photography/Medieval%20Coat%20Of%20Arms
Extant crests on Flickr
http://www.facebook.com/l.php?u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.flickr.com%2Fphotos%2F98015679%40N04%2Fsets%2F72157634696214366%2F&h=wAQFunah3
This guy has heaps of albums that show museums and collections of all sorts of crests, armour, weapons, shields and other medieval objects. I especially like the crest with 2 horns and hanging leafs on a series of branches.
The main album page can be found here
http://www.flickr.com/photos/98015679@N04/sets/
Well worth a look.
This guy has heaps of albums that show museums and collections of all sorts of crests, armour, weapons, shields and other medieval objects. I especially like the crest with 2 horns and hanging leafs on a series of branches.
The main album page can be found here
http://www.flickr.com/photos/98015679@N04/sets/
Well worth a look.
Monday, 30 September 2013
Leather helm crest: Part 6 Preparing gesso sottile
About a week ago, I started to saturate some plaster of Paris to make gesso sottile. This is the second layer of gesso that Cennino Cennini recommends for the outside of a helm crest. In an earlier post I explored the chemical composition of gesso. Gesso sottile is a super hydrated version of plain plaster of Paris. By soaking the plaster, you are allowing it to take on more H2O (water), giving it the desirable property of a slower drying time. This means we will be able to add the final sculpting touches with more care.
Since this is the first time I have used plaster in this way, to sculpt rather than to make moulded objects, it is all a learning experience. I have no idea how well the plaster will stick to the leather, or how well the second layer of plaster will stick to the first, or how the paint will need to be applied. It will also be the first time I have made pigment based medieval paints. There will have to be some test pieces very soon...
Cennini suggests leaving your plaster to soak for 30 days, changing the water to ensure it remains clean. Other sources say this method is inexact - but it is the best evidence I have, closest to my chosen time period, so I have tried this method first. We can always try something else.
To make gesso sottile, I fill a bucket with water and poured plaster in. It is always recommended that you add plaster to water, not water to plaster. When making a gravy or sauce, this produces lumps but for plaster it works well. I mixed it gently and continued to add plaster until it was not absorbed immediately. I covered the bucket with another tub to stop rain, cats, frogs and leaves getting in. Now, we wait.
Friday, 27 September 2013
Leather helm crest: Part 5 Cennini's sand
To attempt Cennini's leather forming method, I have filled the stitched leather structure with wet sand.
In the section marked 'CLXIX How to Model Crests or Helmets.[211]'
Cennini suggests that after drawing up your model design...
"And draw [p. 108] two of them, and sew them together; but leave it open enough on one side so that you can put sand into it; and press it with a little stick until it is all quite full. When you have done this, put it in the sun for several days. When it is quite dry, take the sand out of it ."
Steps
1 "draw two of them" - I have used more than 2 pattern pieces to form a 3D shape. It is possible that Cennini intends that only very simplistic forms are made from the leather with all protuberances, such as ears, chins, arms and legs, being formed from the gesso grosso layer. I chose to go with the second interpretation, which forms more of the final shape from multiple leather pieces, since this design would add a considerable weight of plaster/gesso for final shaping, otherwise. I guess this just means I have more alternatives to try on future crests.
2 "sew them together" - Done
3 "but leave it open enough on one side so that you can put sand into it" - If I were making a full animal to stand on top of a helm, Cennini's method would help make a fully formed body shape. Since I am using a head as the base structure, it was possible to have a large opening at the base of the neck to fill with sand. I plan to form a leather cap on the crown of the helm, and stitch this to the lower edge of the neck. As I did not want this leather cap to deform from the wet sand or pushing with a stick, I chose to add it after the main structure is dry.
4 "you can put sand into it; and press it with a little stick until it is all quite full" - Done. I could have used beach sand, but did not want to have to rinse the salt and impurities from it, and some beaches locally are protected by State and National Park. Further more, while recently living in a coastal town, I worked alongside and became good friends with some women who were Indigenous Australians - they have taught me that it is important to seek permission from the local custodians of the land before removing anything, including sand. Buying sand was a compromise because I could not gain permission to take from local beaches, and this at least gave me the possibility that the sand may have come from somewhere with permission. Yes, I am an optimist.
You can see the colour difference from the left image, with the dry leather, to the right image, which is now packed with wet sand. It took a bit of shaping to get the top to sit in an oval. Next time I would make a wooden disc to fit inside the top to hold the shape.
5
"put it in the sun for several days" - Done. I am not sure it will stay seated where I have put it to rest, so I may need to find a way to chock it up without putting pressure on the outside and changing the shape.
6
"When it is quite dry, take the sand out of it ." - Waiting, waiting...
In the section marked 'CLXIX How to Model Crests or Helmets.[211]'
Cennini suggests that after drawing up your model design...
"And draw [p. 108] two of them, and sew them together; but leave it open enough on one side so that you can put sand into it; and press it with a little stick until it is all quite full. When you have done this, put it in the sun for several days. When it is quite dry, take the sand out of it ."
Steps
1 "draw two of them" - I have used more than 2 pattern pieces to form a 3D shape. It is possible that Cennini intends that only very simplistic forms are made from the leather with all protuberances, such as ears, chins, arms and legs, being formed from the gesso grosso layer. I chose to go with the second interpretation, which forms more of the final shape from multiple leather pieces, since this design would add a considerable weight of plaster/gesso for final shaping, otherwise. I guess this just means I have more alternatives to try on future crests.
2 "sew them together" - Done3 "but leave it open enough on one side so that you can put sand into it" - If I were making a full animal to stand on top of a helm, Cennini's method would help make a fully formed body shape. Since I am using a head as the base structure, it was possible to have a large opening at the base of the neck to fill with sand. I plan to form a leather cap on the crown of the helm, and stitch this to the lower edge of the neck. As I did not want this leather cap to deform from the wet sand or pushing with a stick, I chose to add it after the main structure is dry.
4 "you can put sand into it; and press it with a little stick until it is all quite full" - Done. I could have used beach sand, but did not want to have to rinse the salt and impurities from it, and some beaches locally are protected by State and National Park. Further more, while recently living in a coastal town, I worked alongside and became good friends with some women who were Indigenous Australians - they have taught me that it is important to seek permission from the local custodians of the land before removing anything, including sand. Buying sand was a compromise because I could not gain permission to take from local beaches, and this at least gave me the possibility that the sand may have come from somewhere with permission. Yes, I am an optimist.
You can see the colour difference from the left image, with the dry leather, to the right image, which is now packed with wet sand. It took a bit of shaping to get the top to sit in an oval. Next time I would make a wooden disc to fit inside the top to hold the shape.
5
"put it in the sun for several days" - Done. I am not sure it will stay seated where I have put it to rest, so I may need to find a way to chock it up without putting pressure on the outside and changing the shape.
6
"When it is quite dry, take the sand out of it ." - Waiting, waiting...
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