Friday, 16 August 2013

Wax tablets documentation


The following is the documentation for my wax tablets and tooled leather pouch. It is not a helm crest, but some of the leather work techniques will be used in making the leather base for a crest. 

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Kingdom Arts and Sciences Competition
Storage
Event                                                                 12th Night, 2013
Entrant             Lady Heilwich Gheerts                                         

Wax tablets to store information 
&
A tooled leather pouch to store the tablets


Summary
I made a wax tablet with 3 pages to record market takings and a leather pouch to store it. The tablets are based on15th century pieces from Switzerland (Asplund 2012).
The pouch is based on a tooled leather purse, Metropolitan Museum of Art (see reference pages at the end of this document).

I planed the timber by hand and used a reproduction bow saw and reproduction knife to cut it to size. I chiseled out the recess and poured blackened bees wax in. I cut and stamped the leather to decorate the front of the pouch which I then sewed together using waxed thread.

Next time I would get more appropriate timber, such as oak (European) or Huon Pine (more local and better for carving). I need to practice my plane maintenance, general woodworking skills and lining up holes to prepunch for stitching leather. I enjoyed tooling the leather design, I really enjoyed planing (very rhythmic and the wood shavings are beautiful) and am happy to have finally entered a Kingdom competition.

Comprehensive Documentation
Inspiration pieces
The set of wax tablets in a pouch are based on an extant set of wax tablets from the 15th century, found in a monastery in St Gallen in Switzerland (Asplund, 2012), and an extant piece of tooled leather from an incomplete purse, also 15th century, held in the Metropolitan Museum of Art. 
Purse   Purse
Tooled leather purse, French, 15th century

17cm x 18.9cm x 1.9cm
Wax Tablets - Planning and Construction
Wax tablets have been in use for many centuries before the Middle ages – Arculf, the Frankish Bishop was said to have drawn maps on wax tablets and extant examples exist from Ancient Egypt and the Bronze Age. The main extant waxed tablets that I have aimed to replicate are listed on Randy Asplund’s webpage as follows;
‘I had the good fortune to visit the medieval monastery of St. Gall in St. Gallen, Switzerland where I was permitted to examine and measure a tablet codex (book) of eight panels quite closely. They still had the 15th c. German writing cut in the black wax. All of the interior panels were two-sided while the end panels were only waxed on the inside surfaces. There were no holes cut for binding cords, and instead there was a sort of glued-on parchment along the spine. I do not know if this parchment hinging was added at a later date. …
The dimensions of the tablets are about 14.8cm tall x 8cm wide x 4-5mm thick at the edges. The border surrounding the waxed recess is about 7.5mm along the length and about 1.1cm wide along the short sides. The depth of the waxed recess is about 0.75mm, which leaves about 2.5mm to 3.5mm thickness of wood under the wax of a two-sided tablet… A set of eight boxwood tablets were found in York …Her description also reports that there were no hinges or other bindings, and that the tablets were discovered inside a leather case which also contained a small metal stylus.’
The examples shown in the references section display enormous variety.

Process
I have tried to use as many hand tools, materials and techniques as close to the original as possible.
  


I started by trying to source a timber that I knew was in use during the 15th century in Europe. I was unable to buy an oak, rosewood or beech in suitable quantities and I did not like the ivory substitutes. An Australian wood sculptors and workers organisation suggested that the darker merranti timbers were suitable for carving. Although merranti is an Indonesian timber, not European, it was free, came recommended and made a suitable colour substitute. I tried planing down a piece and found the grain far too coarse to chisel out the 0.75mm deep wax recess. Then a friend helped to remove some pews from a church and had excess timber. I have not been able to get the timber identified but at a guess I would say it is probably Silky Oak (an Australia grevillea tree with oak-like leaves, often used around the time of the time these pews were made, for cabinetry). These pews already had 15th century style arched fretwork on either end, showing the timber to be suitable for carving.
The timber pieces were far too thick so I used a table saw to rip them in half (from 34mm thick down to two pieces of uneven thicknesses). The smaller of these pieces was 10mm - 7mm thick. I bought a wooden boxed hand plane of a similar style to those shown in 15th century images and sharpened the blade. It was quite a challenge to learn how to align the blade only using my eyes, hand and the wooden wedge. I used a frame saw of a similar style to 15th century saws to trim some nail holes from the end of the piece and began to plane it to a uniform thickness. The base of the wooden box plane was not smooth enough and my skills in aligning the blade made it necessary for me to finish the timber with a better quality metal based hand plane. After another hour or so of planing, I was able to get the timber down to 5 mm thick. The beautiful shaving curls were gathered up in a basket and put aside for fire lighting and stuffing, just as you see small children doing in some images of carpentry workshops in the Middle Ages.

I used a sharp knife to trim the pieces to size by repeatedly scoring until the pieces were cut through. The thin pieces of timber were starting to bow in the humidity so it was necessary to sort the pieces into pages in a certain order to ensure they fitted well together. 

I measured the internal recess for each page and marked it out. Given there is such variety in wax tablets from the period, I chose to use dimensions that are reminiscent of the scale of the extant item but more suited to my pieces of timber. I scored the wood to 1 mm deep and used a wide, shallow carving chisel to remove the void. 

It was necessary to work with the grain and even removing such a small volume of timber produces masses of lovely wood shavings. I found the use of a work board with an end stop board and another chock holding it to the table, invaluable. I made the one in the picture above from pieces of scrap pine.

I lit a candle with steel, flint and char cloth, and then held a reproduction 15th century eating knife over the flame to collect the soot. The wax was cut from a large block and heated in a small ceramic cup in the oven. The soot was mixed into the liquid wax to darken it.



Filling the void in each leaf with the blackened wax proved to be a major challenge. I tried to paint to wax on with a thick brush, as suggested by Randy Asplund. Randy was able to see the extant item in person and wrote in his article that he believed the wax had been applied with a brush rather than poured in. I tried this but the wax seemed to cool and harden as soon as it touched the wood, making a clump on the brush that stopped any more wax spreading on to the tablet. I tried heating the tablet in the oven before applying the wax but it still cooled too quickly. I tried pouring the wax from a spoon and this made the wax form smooth pools.

In the end, I used the spoon to fill the recess with several hardened pools of wax and scraped the excess wax back with the back of a reproduction 15th century eating knife. This left scrape marks on the wax and dug out a few chunks of cool wax. A warm oven melted and smoothed the wax surface but also melted the wax into the open pores of the timber. I found it easiest to smooth these marks with my finger.



Leather pouch - Planning and construction
Inspiration pieces
This pouch was made in the style of a kidney purse, due to the similarities in the basic shape of the cover piece with belt holders and the popularity of the kidney purse in the mid fifteenth century. The leather piece the front is inspired by was a single piece of tooled leather, with a basic rectangular shape and slightly rounded corners. The text on mine says 'armours metient' which is a portion of the full text from the extant item;
'armoursmetient
metientenceprigon
armoursmetient  
'love holds me
holds me in this prison
love holds me'
Translation by the MMA
The concept of a love focused inscription is a common theme in the fifteenth century.
It seems that during the fifteenth century, leather was decorated using tooling, dying and cut work (examples in the references). I chose to decorate my tabulae pouch with tooled work.

I used the same font as was shown in the original leather piece and used design elements that were in a consistent style, such as the single motif to fill a space and bars of less decorated leather between the rows of text. 
 I measured the required pouch size and formed a pattern. I transferred this to the leather and cut it out used a sharp knife and metal ruler. I transferred the lettering to the leather using rubbing and then cut around the letters to about 1mm deep. I cut along the border lines and around the other images. Then I sprayed the leather with water, flexed it to open the boundary cuts and began to stamp down the background with a metal stamp and a hammer.


It was necessary to use a smaller triangular stamp to ensure the corners were imprinted before going back over the stamped area with a larger stamp to smooth the indented surface. The stitching holes were pre-marked, lined up and pre-punched. The seams were stitched and the pouch was oiled.
  

When stamping the leather, the first pass with the triangular tool differentiated the raised letters from the printed background (top left of image). The second pass was made with the larger square punch (upper right). The final pass used the larger flatter tool to smooth the background further and the edge to clear up the visual edge of the lettering (bottom left).
Evaluation
In order to get timber that is more historically accurate, I will purchase 6mm pieces of timber in what ever size pieces are on offer next time, instead of trying to make do with free timber, or would like to try quarter splitting and then sawing timber to size.. I enjoyed planing the timber down and my technique improved noticeably during this project, though I need to learn how to correctly position and chock the blade piece of my wooden box plane. Having a recess of less than 1mm on the tablets was actually achievable (I was not sure this would work when I started). Painting on the wax to create a smooth surface was not. Next time I would try to add more char black to the wax to ensure the under surface was not visible, or even try using other dye stuffs to make the yellow and green wax you sometimes see in wax tablets in images. Next time I will get to work while my friend has his forge running and try to make a stylus from metal.

References
Tooled leather purse, French, 15th century. Accessed December 2012

Asplund, Randy (2012). Wax tablets and Stylus. Accessed December 2012.

Priest-Dorman, Greg and Carolyn Priest-Dorman. Making and Using Waxed Tablets: Some Highlights in the History of Waxed Tablets. Accessed January 2013.


 Ivory Waxed Tablet (accession number 71.279 )

France, ca. 1330-40, by an unknown craftsman. 
H: 4 9/16 x W: 2 1/2 in. (11.6 x 6.3 cm)

~*~
The Summoner’s Tale in Geoffrey Chaucer’s Canterbury Tales tells us of a friar who
…bore two ivory tablets, well appointed
Also a stylus elegantly pointed
He always wrote the names down as he stood
Of those who gave him offerings or food…’
~*~


Wood and wax tablet showing the birth certificate of illegitimate twins
 April 29, 145 AD, from Alexandria, Egypt.
13.5cm x 18cm
Advanced Papyrological Information System website
*NOTE* This is one of many wax tablet birth certificates shown on the this website.
~*~


6 wax tablets in pouch, late 14th century, French
KBR, ms IV, 1278
Accessed January 2013
~*~


14th century ivory wax tablet
KBR, ms. IV 1277
Accessed January 2013
~*~
William Smith, D.C.L., LL.D.: Tabulae


‘ Tabulae and Tabellae more frequently signify waxen tablets (tabulae ceratae),
 which were thick pieces of wood usually of an oblong shape, covered over
with wax (cera). The wax was written on by means of the stilus. [Stilus.] ‘
~*~

Found in a ship wreck in Uluburun from 1300 BC.
~*~

Two boys go to school, Livre des Vices et des Vertus
BNF Fr. 20320, fol. 177v, 15th century
~*~

Leather tooled pouch from Novgorod Archaeological Museum showing carved lines and external stitching.
Accessed January 2013
~*~

 Cut and tooled leather pouch from Novgorod Archaeological Museum
Accessed January 2013
~*~

     75 AD     A Fresco showing a couple in Pompei painted with a wax tablet and stylus. Currently housed in Museuo Archeological Nazionale
http://www.historyofinformation.com/expanded.php?category=Paper+%2F+Papyrus+%2F+Parchment+%2F+Vellum                                      Accessed January 2013

~*~


 Jean Bourdichon 1505-1510
The four conditions of society: Work


*NOTE* This image shows several tools, including two versions of planes, gouges and chisels, knives and a frame saw resting behind the man. I now have a lovely big basket of wood shavings, just like the child.

Another Helm Crest Blog

This lovely lady was the person who first introduced me to Cennini. Rachel Grimmer makes an awesome range of projects and is Excellent (pun intended) company. Have a look at her webpage.

Gesso from calcium carbonate vs gesso from calcium sulphate

In my last post, I briefly outlined what gesso was. I am still looking into how it came to be used and why type was chosen over the other. I used the websites listed in the previous post, particularly this e-book, and will refer to it again here.

Calcium Carbonate
Calcium carbonate was typically used in Northern Europe, most likely because this is where significant and accessible deposits were being mined during the middle ages. It is also known as chalk. Chalk is the remains of ancient sea creatures. It can be finely ground and to make chalk whiting. This whiting can be turned into gesso by adding a size.

Calcium Sulphate
Bulian and Graystone say it was typically used around the Mediterranean region, most likely because Bologna and Volterra have large deposits. Jerry Tresser also records that in the 1300s there was a large deposit being mined at Montmartre, near Paris. This most likely accounts for the common name of the refined product: Plaster of Paris.

The mined substance is known as gypsum. This is CaSO4.2H2O [Calcium sulphate dihydrate]

Gypsum was mined, ground up and burned to remove water and any impurities. Tresser says this process also changes the natural gypsum from yellow to white. When this dried product was ground again, it has the adjust chemical composition CaSO4.1/2H2O . It was, and still is, sometimes called Plaster of Paris. This powder is called gesso in Italian.

Gesso was used in 2 ways.
1. Gesso Grosso
CaSO4.1/2H2O + Size
Plaster of Paris, or gesso, was sifted and then moisten it, assumedly with water.

Add parchment size or hide size to this paste to make gesso grosso. This is the first layer Cennini recommends to apply over the leather crest shape. It is fast drying, but this means bulky sculpture protrusions have less time to sag or drip. This makes it a good material for roughing out the shape.

2. Gesso Sottile
CaSO4.2H2O + Size
Plaster of Paris, or gesso, was soaked in water for several weeks
Cennini says to soak it for 30 days. Jerry Tresser points out that this is an imprecise process, as it is not possible to tell when the gesso was been super hydrated. After reading a few other versions of this process, I think Cennini likely chose 30 days as a safe, standard soaking time to ensure the process was completed by this point.

The water is drained off and the paste is set into blocks to dry again. This powder was called gesso di bologna.

Mix it with size to make Gesso Sottile. This is used in the fine finishing layer of Cennini's crest making process. It has the benefit of being slower drying, allowing more time for fine detailing.


What is Gesso , Ground and Size?

Reading Cennini's instructions on making gesso left me confused so I went searching. The best results I found were at Qualitative Study of Cennini's Gesso for Illumination and Wood Coatings: Theory and Practice pp.142-144 The book is available for purchase as a hard copy or e-book. I liked this person's profile and their enthusiasm for the modern version of the process. Here is a summary of my new understanding of the materials and process.

What is a Ground?
When timber or leather are prepared for painting, it is sometimes useful to place a layer of substance that will enhance the surface texture and the appearance of the paint. Gesso is one form of ground. It is a white substance that is painted over the main structure. In the case of crests, Cennini recommends building a structure of moulded leather and applying several layers of gesso as the ground.

What can Gesso be made from?
Sometimes texts simply use the term 'white ground', which is not very specific but is a good umbrella term. The short answer is that there were 2 main substances in use as white grounds, though other less common materials were also suitable.  

Most Common
Whiting    CaCO3 
- This is available at my local Eckersleys art shop

Plaster of Paris   CaSO4.1/2H2O
Derived from calcium sulphate
*Note* There are several versions of the usable product so I will add detail
This is available at all hardware shops and art shops


Less Common
Kaolin         A2O3.2SiO2.2H2O
Essentially, a clay, but with a wide range of uses and preparations
Synonyms 
- This is available at my local Eckersleys art shop.

Dolomite     CaMg(CO3)2
Magnesium Calcium Carbonate
- I have not seen this for sale but have not really gone looking
*Note* The term dolomite seems to be a synonym for Calcium Carbonate, even though the chemical composition is different.

What is Size?
Size is another word for glue - a very simplified description, but it makes sense in most contexts. Rabbit hide glue, or just 'hide glue', is available online from book making and fine woodworking websites. It comes as orange brown crystal flakes. Cennini recommends making the best size from the "necks of goats and sheep by trimming, washing, soaking and then boiling it," (Thompson, 1960, cited in Bulian & Graystone, 2009, p. 143, linked above). I will have a look at Cennini for the exact quote. This book also mentions two other "historic treatises" by Theophilus and Watin. Both have a preference for animal glue but none mention rabbit skin glue (Souza and Derrick, 1995, cited in Bulian & Graystone, 2009, p. 143). This implies that perhaps we use rabbit hide glue for most of our reconstruction projects simply because it is readily available at the moment, rather than it is readily available because of superior properties.

Thursday, 15 August 2013

Clothing from the Decameron: Infants, Children and Youth

Children appear to wear smaller versions of adult clothing. Infants are swaddled - wrapped in bands of fabric. The two teenage girls are wear a form of pinafore over their kirtles. These outer garments are the only items that are wore exclusively by children. 

Clothing from the Decameron: Women

Here is a simple handout I created for a class on clothing shown in the Decameron.

Women's clothing
Underwear
Smock
Rarely visible - sleeves and neck covered by outer clothing. Round neck, no lower than necessary to admit the head. Small pleats centre front on some.
Hosen
Since women do not wear a jack to point long hose to, and since there are contemporary art pieces showing knee high hosen in the low countries, assume the hosen seen are knee length. Can wear footed hose alone or shoes (poulaines or pattens).

 Basic layer
Kirtle
Round neckline, often no lower than the collarbone. Cleavage is never visible. Some worn loose and clearly not laced up (seen being pulled over the head). Others are very tight around the torso. With assistance, it is possible to be pulled into and out of a very firm garment, though side lacing was also known in Germany, France, Italy and other Flemish art of the time. No waist seam. Long sleeves - usually without an opening at the wrist, though buttons and lacing to 2/3 of the way up the forearm was known in the region at the time. No lining it evident, though some show fur at the edges, indicating possible lining. Sometimes 2 kirtles were worn. Upper classes could wear a second kirtle with hanging sleeves. Lower classes tended to wear two kirtles of the same style, for warmth. Ankle to below floor length - again, this increased with the station of the wearer. Excess length was bunched over a belt, worn at the waist.


Outer layer
Houpeland
This outer layer is worn by the middle and upper classes. Working women who require an extra layer for warmth wear an extra kirtle or cloak. The body is cut wide. Pleats are formed high on the waist and held by a belt. The gown can have wide straight, dalmatian or hanging sleeves. No bag sleeves are visible on women's houpelands in the Decameron, though they are present in contemporary art. Collars can be part of a centre opening, standing, low, fur lined or turned down high square. Gowns can be floor length but are often longer. Contrasting colours were used for linings, especially for styles with turn down collars and open hanging sleeves.

Accessories 

Belts
There are 3 varieties of belts worn by women in the Decameron. Hip belts were worn over kirtles. Belts worn over the houpeland layer were sometimes wide, and always worn high on the waist. The belts that were worn to hold up a long skirt were narrow an often decorated. One is shown as black and studded, in a style very similar to men's belts, and another is pictured as coloured to match the gown. Perhaps these belts are of the woven variety, found from the same era. The belts worn over a kirtle, hanging low in the front are often called ovary belts. They pictured with some sort of twisted gold hanging end, in this document.



Headwear
In this document, the only time a woman wore her hair uncovered was when she was in a state of undress, unmarried girls and Queens wearing a crown. The bourelet or padded head roll was worn in many guises, with the extravagance linked to higher status. Some women still wore veils. Working women and older ladies wore simple wrapped styles, while some younger women wore veils supported by hidden structure. The hair was sometimes styled into twin buns above the ears, on either side of the temple. These buns were covered a net-like fabric, and secured with ribbon, crossed on the top of the head. Hoods of a particular style were worn by Flemish women. These hoods had long liripipes (tails) and stiffened brims. The lower edge sat neatly wrapped around the shoulders. These hoods came in a variety of colours, but red was by far the most common.



Shoes
The black, pointy toed poulaine is the most common type of women's footwear in this text. A pair of yellow slippers is visible on a servant. They appear to be made from felted wool. Women's pattens in this document have red uppers, with a single band over the arch.


Pouches
Women are seen with square bags that are suspended from one cord and drawn tight with another two. These can be small or medium sized. There is a shoulder bag, worn by a traveller.

Cloaks
Cloaks are shown in 3 styles: Semi circular with a standing collar, semicircular with no collar (like a mantle) and full (or almost full) circle in a buff colour, with buttons at the shoulder.

Clothing from the Decameron: Men

Boccaccio wrote several texts, though his best known work was The Decameron. This series of 10 tales per day told for 10 days was written in the second quarter of the fourteenth century. It remained popular and was translated into French almost a century later. This edition was illustrated by 2 Flemish artists, who completed their work in 1430-1440. These illuminations provide a fairly comprehensive view of the clothing worn in the Low Countries at this time. There are distinctly French influences in some of the fashions, but the styles and accessories are consistent with other Flemish art of the time.

The following is a hand out for a class I ran. It is a basic overview of clothing worn in the 1430s in the region around Flanders. There will be 3 parts: Men's, Women's and Children's clothing.

Men's clothing
Underwear
Braies
Drawstring waist, trunk style in Franco-Flemish clothing 
Sherte
Full body, long sleeves, always white


Inner layer
Jack / pourpoint
Tight at the waist, bodice separate to skirt
Hose
Separate legs, laced to the inner jack. Seam up the back. Both legs the same colour. Skin tight for all classes of people, bar the very poorest.


Outer layer
Outer Jack
Similar shape to inner jack, but the hose are not laced to them. Fastened with buttons.
or    Robe
Various lengths (floor to above the knee), pleats or folds at the waist, hidden hooks and eyes down the front. Sleeves can be straight, bag or hanging. Can have fur lining or trim.


Men's Accessories
Cloak
The cloak can have a split from the ground to the upper arm or be fastened by 3-4 buttons on the shoulder.
Hats
Chaperon - styled on a hood with a rolled face opening. Bag hats with various height crowns. Some with rolled brims. Straw and felted hats. Acorn hats are shaped like a beanie.
Belts and Pouches
Plain black belts 1.5" wide are the most common. Kidney shaped pouches have their own matching belt. Some other pouches have matching belts. Buckles are rarely seen in this document. Studs and carving are used for ornamentation.
Shoes
Black ankle boots very common among all classes.
Footed hose also common, though only indoors. They have a sole of a different colour, most likely from leather or some tougher material. Pattens were made from wood and leather, and are shown in some outdoor scenes. They can have one or two straps in black or brown.