Winged helm crest: part 3 equestrian gear

I am planning to make this a heraldic display for use on horseback during demos, school presentations and possibly for use during Skills at Arms games. There are some limitations to work within.

- The helm and armour available to me at this time. The helm very similar to the bulbous faced bascinet shown below.

1410-1418 France

http://manuscriptminiatures.com/3989/8571/

In the second image, below, you can see the difference between the two kinds of bulbous faced helms, both worn at the same time. The helm on the left is like the ones above and is worn with a maile standard or coif. The helms shown on the right, below, are worn with articulated throat and neck plates. This is part of what makes them grand bascinets.

1410-1418 France

http://manuscriptminiatures.com/3989/8574/

As far as armour available, I will be using a set up like this one. Differences: my grieves are not fully cased, I do not yet have sabatons (I like these round toed ones) and I do not have a maile skirt to wear under the faulds of the corizana.

1440-1418 France

http://manuscriptminiatures.com/3989/8580/

Moving on to the horse gear, here are some images that also show the bulbous faced bascinet and related armour used in 1440-1455, in association with horses and helm decoration. Only one of these shows a tournament setting. In that case, though the animal style helm crests are present, at this time they are shown without a torse to cover the join between crest and mantle.

This first image shows a couple of bulbous faced helms. One is worn with full plate, the other with a fabric covering on the chest. Of the open barding, shades of red are shown: bright red x 3, pink x 1, purple x 1. Gold seems to be the most common trim tone and is applied to all parts of the barding. 

1440-1445 France

http://manuscriptminiatures.com/3932/10776/

The image below shows an ornate grand bascinet with 3 feathers rising from the top. The saddle has the same covering as the barding and bridle.

1440-1450 France

http://manuscriptminiatures.com/4382/8772/

A short tailed horse with a pink harness. Note the double girth bands - Useful to avoid slipping while you are swooping over the sea to finish monsters? Perhaps the chest band is not just decorative, but also serves as a simple chest guard to stop back slip.

1450 France

http://manuscriptminiatures.com/4404/8776/

The following is the only image in this time period that I have been able to find the could, potentially show both a suitable helm and equestrian use with animal helm crests. The equipment for the horses is significantly different from other barding shown. This suggests that if animal helm crests were to be used while riding during this later period (1440-50, rather than 1410-20), it would be most appropriate in this format, not open war.

1447-1449 Hagenou, France

http://manuscriptminiatures.com/4936/14849/

Bridles

    a                           b                      c                     d                       e                           f

(a) This bridle is the one I would like to replicate. The horses I ride usually do not use bits so the nose band shown is the closest to what we currently use. 

(b) (d) (e) (f) These bridles do not show the nose band to be in use. I cannot see a cheek strap, either, though this may be due to positioning. All of these horses use a bit. 

Chest straps

      

a                          b                       c                            d                     e                     f

Form

(a) (b) single strap with a short hanging strap centre front.

(c) (d) (e) single strap

(f) full covering that works up to leg protection

Decoration

(a) (c) (d) large gold coloured roundels used on joins and regular intervals on strap. 

(b) (d) (e) smaller gold coloured studs and/or rectangular plaques spaced 1 plaque width to 2 spaces.

(f) gold roundels or bells on the lower edge of the chest skirt.

Roundel size

(a) roundel full width of the strap, centred

(b) roundel slightly wider than strap, centred

(c) roundel full width of the strap, on edge, small studs along upper edge of the solid band

(d) roundel width of the fringed part of the strap, which is 4 x wider than the upper band, on centre of the thin upper band. Small studs along the upper band, rectangular plaques on the lower fringed section.

(e) roundel, the full width of the strap including both the upper band and fringed part, seen on join at rear. Small studs along the upper band, rectangular plaques on the lower fringed section.

Rear straps

  a                     b                        c                    d                 e                       f

(f) no rear straps

Horizontal straps

(a) (b) (c) (d) (e) One horizontal strap

(a) (d) clearly show the horizontal strap passing under the tail

Others are not visible. None show the strap passing above the tail

Vertical Straps - hanging

(a) (c) 3 vertical straps under the horizontal strap

(b) 2 vertical straps under the horizontal strap

(e) 1 vertical strap under the horizontal strap

Vertical - Support, above

(b) 2 vertical straps above the horizontal strap

(c) (d) (e) 1 vertical strap above the horizontal strap

Uneven vs Matched

(a) (c) more hanging straps than upper vertical straps

(b) (d) same number of hanging straps as upper vertical straps

Decorations - Roundals

(all) shown roundels on joins in straps

(a) (b) roundels on hanging terminals

(c) (d) no roundel on terminals

Decorations - trim

(a) fine fringe on edge of hanging vertical straps

(b) small gold studs along centre

(c) small gold diagonal bars or crescent studs all along straps

(d) some sort of gold detailing on straps, finer than studs, may be gilding or thread

(e) Small studs along the upper band, rectangular plaques on the lower fringed section.

Reins

a                                b                         c                   d             e                      f

 Width

(a) (b)  narrow along the full length

(c) (d) wide, hanging, seen at nose only

(e) Horse faces right, seen at shoulder, wide on hanging length, narrow where handled

(f) narrow-medium, all straps the same width on bridle, rein and chest

Number

(a) (b) double reins, from bit to handling

(c) (d) (e) (f) single reigns

Points to consider

I need to think about how the open barding will be attached, which saddle it will be used with and how to make sure the straps are attached safely and comfortably. I will need to think about whether I make a bridle from scratch, using a historical or a similar, familiar modern style or if I make a cover for an existing bridle and reins. Righto, I am off to pattern a horse.

Winged helm crest: Part 1

For this heraldic display, I will be using green and blue, since they are the colours on my SCA registered device. I will highlight with bronze, to add a metal to the tincture palette.

The complete set will include
* a helm crest suitable for use during equestrian displays and skill at arms competitions
* open barding for the horse that I often ride
* heraldic coloured clothing
* heraldic shield, a christmas gift from my partner
* suitable armour

In choosing the style of crest, I must consider the use, the armour I already have and the materials I have available, matching these aspects to what was present during the middle ages. The helm I have is a bulbous faced bascinet, which will have pointing holes drilled in the top. I think I will make a helm crest in a style suited to the mid 15th century.

I have chosen to use a wing style design, as my device has no primary charge, only two fields.

Wings on Helm Crests

The following images show a timeline of wings in use around the fifteenth century. They are all found at http://lalanguedublason.blogspot.com.au/2012/05/armoriaux-anciens.html

1290 - 1310  Manesse Codex
* Feathers represented on an eagle shaped helm crest, naturalistic irregular edges with lighter paint in Us to simulate feathers on a smooth surface.

1335 - 1345  Die Wappenroll von Zurich
All of these images show designs running front to back, which may be an artistic depiction
* Feathered or fringed horns, making a circular outline, runs front to back
* A peacock feathered disc behind a fleur de lis, soft edges, circular
* Single large wing, very deep feather cuts, one long feather row in first colour, second and third short rows in other colour, lowest fourth short row in first colour, 1:1 feather:gap spacing, gently curved top edge, flap down to the ground
* Single scallop edged fan, running front to back, with peacock designs on ends
* Peacock feather oval rising from a crown
* Single large wing, very deep feather cuts, one row of long feathers and three rows of short feathers
* Single semi circle with a painted design in the middle, two rows of short feathers and one row of peacock feathers
* Trapezium of peacock feathers
* Disc of peacock feathers
* Interesting pair of black and red wings, rising from either side of a hat, naturalistic edges, and elongated shape. Quite a different shape to other wings shown.

1370 - 1386   Armorial du héraut Gelre
* rectangular upright double wings, with multiple naturalistic layers of feathers, run left to right x 2
* stylised claw terminations, one layer
* rectangular double wings with a single row of long feather incisions, run back to front, flat
* rectangular double wings with a single row of short feather incisions, run left to right, flat
* rectangular double wings with a single row of long feather incisions, flat, diagonal edge down by 1/3, runs left to right
* stylised double wing horns, with a curl on the tip and scalloped edging, runs left to right



1410 - 1420  Lalaing Armorial    
* Short double wings on either side of an animal, multiple rows of feathers, narrow wings but feathers widely splayed, flat, run front to back
* Double wings, flapping down to the ground, single feather end layer, curved feathers cut deeply, run front to back x 2
* Double wings, flapping down to the ground, long feather tips with 2 rows of short feathers, curved feathers cut deeply, disc of feathers rising from the centre, run front to back

1445 - 1456  Armorial de Guillaume Revel
* Double wings in rectangular form, slight angle on top edge, two rows of feathers, half length each, flat, only indented feather incisions, run front to back x 2
* Naturalistic wings on a horse or dragon

1447 - 1455   Hyghalmen roll
* Double wing with curved outer edges, deep cut feathers, flat, feathers point upwards, run left to right x 4
* Double wings with bumpy top edge and feathers facing down, more like typical 14th C heraldic wings, deep cut feathers with a 3:1 feather to space ratio, run left to right on a bird

1450  Scheibler Amorial
* Double wings with bumpy top edge and feathers facing down, more like typical heraldic wings, deep cut feathers with a 3:1 feather to space ratio, run left to right on a bird, skinny feathers between wide ones, on a complete bird standing on the helm



1456-1459   Armorial dit de Gorrevod  
* Double wings with multiple feather rows with naturally curved terminations, diagonal end cut down to half,  run front to back
* Rectangular double wings with a long row of feathers and many short rows, straight cut end with no feather incisions - could actually be sheaths of wheat, very flat,  run front to back
* Rectangular double wings with a long row of feathers and many short rows, very short feather incisions, flat,  run front to back


1466 - 1470   Wappenbuch vo St Gallen, Haggenberg     double wings on a woman run left to right, double wings on a bird run front to back in natural position on the bird's body.
* Single wing, flat, wide naturalistic form, back edge cut into curved edge with deep feather incisions, runs front to back
* Double wings on a woman, very curved shape making an oval outline, single row of feather incisions, deep cut, run left to right, facing front, flat
* Double wings on a bird in natural position, long arcing feathers with very deep incisions, flat.
* Double wings, flat, wide naturalistic form, back edge cut into curved edge with deep feather incisions, double wings run front to back from inside a crown



1466 - 1473     Ortenburger  Wappenbuch
* Simplified naturalistic wings on a bird

1483   Conrad Grunenberg Wappenbuch  
*A single wing, hard to tell if running front to back or left to right, deep feather incisions, curved feathers widely spaced, flat x 2
* Double flat wings, hard to tell if running left to right or front to back, one long feather layer and one short feather layer, arcing outline making a circle



1486    

1244 - 1259  Matthew Paris shields


1265 - 1270 Wijnbergen


1272 - 1307  Smalepece's Roll


1285  Charles roll


1310 Lord Marshal


1340 Cook ordinary


1417 - 1420 Cour Armoureuse


1340 - 1350   Balduineum

1350  Powell's roll 

1353  Wappensaal zu Lauf

1449 - 1456    Bergshammar

1466 Trivulziano ou Visconti

1470 - 1480 (+ 1292 - 1295)  Amorial le Breton

1527 

1605   Siemacher's Wappenbuch

Hyghalmen Roll

http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Hyghalmen_Roll
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hyghalmen_Roll
1447-1455



http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Jesus_Coat_of_Arms_1.jpg

Clothing for 1420-1482: One outfit from 1450

Here is an outfit I wear regularly. It is based on images from 1450 in Franco-Flemish artwork. Last weekend I attended a 3-day camping event - it was hot so I wore the layers up to the kirtle, without sleeves. Yesterday, I presented a unit, for a school group, on life in the Middle Ages - these photos were taken straight after that event.

First layers 

Smock/sherte - Linen with embroidered neckline and cuffs. A high scooped neckline without embroidery would be more common in most lower to middle class outfits.

Shoes - These leather poulaines are by far my most comfortable shoes. It took a few events to get used to walking, as the soles are very slick and the pointed toes collect long grass. Now, they are by far my favourite to wear. They have been worn in all weather, including under ankle deep water and mud at a very wet Great Northern War. A great purchase!

Hosen - woollen knee high hosen. The garter is unnecessary for this pair and was only being worn to as part of the demonstration.

Veil - this headwear is a combination of two veils. It is a middle class style, and can be altered to many other styles, by ruffling the outer veil and pinning into different bumps. I will detail the method in another post.

Structure - underskirt

This under skirt adds structure to the kirtle skirt. It keeps my legs warm and creates a solid base for the kirtle. There is less evidence in the mid 15th C in the low countries for this layer. It appears to be a common French practice of the time to wear multiple long sleeve kirtles at once, negating the need for the underskirt. It was 37 degrees Celsius last time I wore this outfit, so I must admit that it is a very rare event (maybe once a year) that is cool enough to wear multiple full sleeve kirtles. This layer is a compromise, rather than a strict reconstruction.

Kirtle layer

The green kirtle is laced in the front, using solid brass rings. When put on, it laces smoothly. After wearing it for a day, the lacing shifts to gap over the bust. The skirt is tucked up, as seen in illustrations of ladies working in doors. Those working in fields often only show the kirtle layer, and are tucked up to bare the lower legs for ease of movement. I wear a small purse on my belt - there are images in Boccaccio's Decameron of two girls with pouches in this position. There are other images of women with purses hanging on the kirtle layer, showing beneath their lifted gowns. These other styles seem to hang more to the sides, and do not show their attachment to the belt or kirtle. The sleeves are pinned on, and come in a range of colours and materials. None for dirty kitchen work, rich silk brocade for under a gown with hanging sleeves.

Gown

This black woollen gown is in the middle class houpeland style. It originally had a fur lined bodice, but it turned out to be too hot. The fur is now a trim around the neckline and cuffs. 

Crests in 1450s: Part 3

1400-1450 Austria

http://manuscriptminiatures.com/3963/13535/

Crests in 1450s: Part 2

http://manuscriptminiatures.com/4801/11862/  1450 Belgium

2 red bourelets over helms. Both have gold details. This seems to be the most common way to wear a bourelet in this decade.

http://manuscriptminiatures.com/4643/12847/  1450 Belgium

Peacock plume rises from the centre top of a helm, without visible attachment.

http://manuscriptminiatures.com/4560/11251/  1450 France

2 different slender feathers rising from the top of the crown of a helm, without and obvious attachment. A red and gold bourelet is worn in the foreground.

http://manuscriptminiatures.com/4822/13560/   1450 Germany

Single feather coming from the centre front. Double-decker crown, too.

http://manuscriptminiatures.com/4576/13804/  1450 Germany

Crossed over string of beads on the far right helm?

http://manuscriptminiatures.com/4822/13559/  1450 Germany

2 tails from a ribbon or torse are seen top left. 3 slim feather coming out of a gold and silver brooch/mounting point on the front of the second man's helm.

http://manuscriptminiatures.com/4822/13558/  1450 Germany

Angry horses. Huge flower pauldrons. A massive crown. a single ostrich feather attached by a gold brooch to the centre front of a helm, or maybe a silver bourelet on a helm. The artist uses different brush strikes on the item that could be a silver bourelet to the red bourelet that is worn by the rider on the left, though.

http://manuscriptminiatures.com/4822/13545/   1450 Germany

Blob crest? Short, curly feathers? Short, extra dagged mantle? 

http://manuscriptminiatures.com/4576/13806/   1450 Germany

2 thin feathers attached to the right side beneath the ear roundel. Note the man with the sleeveless arming jack. It could also be argued that this jack simply has different coloured sleeves, and is made in the grand aissette style. 

http://manuscriptminiatures.com/4576/13807/   1450 Germany

2 slender feathers attached to the centre front join in the crown and the brim/fixed visor on the helm. There is what could be a gold torse, though it is more likely to be part of the helm. And another man in a sleeveless jack.

http://manuscriptminiatures.com/4822/13549/  1450 Germany

You rarely see hair from under a helm, so I will guess this is the artists rendition of a thick bourelet with a slim torse and free tails on top.

http://annebhd.free.fr/heraldique/britishlibrary.htm  1443-1455

multi-tail mantling under a crown. There is a black tall cylindrical plume rising from the crown, between 2 horns that seem to be tipped in blood. There also seems to be a small flag on top of each horn. Extravagant. 

http://annebhd.free.fr/heraldique/britishlibrary.htm before 1558

I believe this was on the cover of a book. There is a small torse, and some other crest items, though they are hard to see.

http://lalanguedublason.blogspot.com.au/2012/05/armoriaux-anciens.html

The Gorrevod Armorial 1456-1459